Bacolod and Silay Cities
Mum, Greg, Teray and I leave Iloilo City to spend Christmas with my Tita (Auntie) Annie and her family, in Bacolod City, the capital of Negros Occidental. Tita Annie has lived on Negros for decades, overseeing operations of the sugar plantations her family has owned since the beginning of the 20th century. As children, she and Mum played together. These days, she is enjoying retirement.
On arrival at the port, we are met by my cousin Raul Gorres, Teray's brother, a retired automotive parts salesman, and now Tita Annie's diver. Raul has a long history with my family. He was the ringbearer at my parents' wedding and lived with my family until we immigrated to Canada. I remember a vivacious and mischievous playmate who was often at odds with my temperamental grandmother, resulting in beatings with slippers. Today he has two daughters and a grandchild and enjoys going on motorcycling holidays around the country, with friends. His knowledge of the back roads of Negros is remarkable, as we are soon to learn.
Raul drives us to a restaurant where we reunite with Tita Annie, her daughters Susan, Helen, and Mary Jane, and are introduced to Mary Jane's husband, Ricky, and three of their four daughters, Angelina, Alyssa, and Agnes. Their son Alex lives and works in Singapore, while their daughter, Anna, is ill and recovering at home.
It's been, at least, 30 years since I last met Tita Annie, Susan, Helen, and Mary Jane. It seems only yesterday, though, when my sister, Maria, and I, along with Teray, used to play with the three sisters and their older brother, George. Despite the obvious physical changes that accompany time, it is reassuring to know that more meaningful aspects of the human experience change very little, and we can carry on where we last left off.
Over a meal of fried chicken and salad, we bring each other up to speed on our lives, with much of the conversation focusing on Mary Jane's children. Greg and I are struck by how 'North American' their English sounds, partly, we presume, the result of attending good schools and the avid reading of English novels. Alyssa, in particular, seems remarkably well read. We are also struck by how artistically inclined they are. The eldest daughter, Anna, for instance, is studying fine arts and has lived in Italy and Spain.
Ricky and Mary Jane, in contrast to conventional Filipino middle- and upper-class households, which employ housemaids and nannies, have raised their children and run their household on their own. The result is that family members have learned to be both domestically, intellectually, and emotionally independent, which could explain their daughters' highly individualistic personalities.
Susan, Tita Annie's eldest, introduces Greg and me to her husband, Benny, a former Catholic priest. Both are teachers at La Salle Secondary School in Manila. Over the next three days, Susan and Benny act as our cultural and historical guides, who, along with Raul and Teray, accompany us on tours around Bacolod City, Silay City, and Mambukal Springs. We are impressed with their extensive knowledge of (especially local) Filipino culture and history. Helen, the middle daughter runs a successful cake making and decorating business. During our tour around the city, we note how many people - her clients - stop her on the street, to chat.
After lunch the party heads over to Mary Jane and Ricky's home, which, along with Tita Annie's, is in a gated community. Greg and I are struck by how, in contrast to Filipino homes we have so far seen - in Manila, Iloilo, and the country side - these homes are very Western in their design, materials, and function, with large plots and extensive gardens. Alyssa introduces us to their two rambunctious huskies. Over delicious, freshly-squeezed fruit juice, we chat about property ownership in the Philippines, especially that of the upper classes, from an historical context.
Ricky, scion of a sugar-growing family, the Lacsons, wants to preserve
the family hacienda by obtaining historical property status for it. His
cousins, however, are currently opposed to this designation as it would
entail extensive repairs and opening the property up to the public,
something they are not prepared to do. Ricky worries about the
property's physical state.
Obtaining the family's permission, he takes us on a tour of the hundred year old property (located in the middle of sugar cane fields), which, despite its dereliction reflects a beauty in design - the precise placement of windows and balconies that facilitate cross breezes - and materials - the wide-planked hardwood floors and ironwork. We relish the opportunity of seeing this historical gem, since we're probably some of the few 'outsiders' allowed to do so.
Highlights of this tour include the effective use of windows and
shutters, which, in the days prior to air conditioning, allowed control
of temperature and protection from monsoon rains. Balconies and inner
courtyards facilitated indoor-outdoor living. Ricky, for one, remembers
enjoying hours of basketball playing, after setting up a net in one of
the upper floor courtyards. That net, now tattered, is still
there.
Touring Bacolod City and its surroundings was only part of our visit.
Given that today is Christmas Eve day, celebrating it is another
priority. The family reconvened after midnight mass to eat and open
presents. These include T-shirts from Canada and organic cosmetics from a
non-profit organization for the poor and homeless, of which Ricky and
Mary Jane are members. There is much discussion over the huge gulf between the
rich and poor, in the Philippines. (Days later, Greg and I also speculate on how
life in a gated community must perpetuate the binary of living in
parallel but separate realities, as a result of the large gap between
the rich and poor, one that is even more obvious here than in Canada). Ricky claims that much of this is
attributable to decades of government corruption, which siphoned off
billions of public money, for private use, but which is now being
stemmed by the current government of the country, headed by Corazon
Aquino's son, Benigno.
Christmas Day dawns rainy. We are
receiving the peripheral effects of tropical storm Quinta, though these
aren't severe. Raul even manages to drive Susan, Benny, Teray, Greg and
me to the local museum and two more heritage homes in Silay City (to add
to one we visited yesterday). Silay is part of the Bacolod metropolitan
area and became a major sugar-producing centre when a Frenchman, Yves Leopold Germain Gaston,
established a sugar mill and permanently settled there, in the mid-nineteenth
century. Others became prosperous in Negros's sugar boom, resulting in
Silay becoming an international port city. We visit three heritage homes
in the city - Hofilena Ancestral Home, Balay Negrense Museum, and
Bernardino Jalandoni Ancestral House. Characteristic of all three homes are the deep eaves, countless windows with separate lower vents, central open spaces bordered by smaller rooms, and large kitchen spaces in back. Such design considerations take into account the tropical climate, facilitating cross breezes and protection from heavy rain. Original furniture of the colonial period, together with those from the French Art Deco period, are equally as impressive.
The last site we visit is The Ruins, remnants of a once-magnificent Italianate-style mansion. Built in the early twentieth century by sugar baron Don Mariano Ledesma Lacson, it is actually made of concrete, manually poured, and located in the middle of sugar cane fields. (We arrive after a 25-minute long drive over a frightfully gutted dirt road). The ruin affords views of the surrounding countryside and seems, even today, out of place, given its luxurious design. But it was built at a time when the ruling classes lived on and managed
their own lands, ensuring their successful cultivation and where they
would have supervised a large number of workers. Later, wealthy landowners had homes built in the city, once urban living became more fashionable. Given Don Mariano's wealth, the mansion was said to have housed some of the finest antiques and decorative pieces, from abroad. It was razed in WWII by the Americans, to prevent Japanese soldiers from using it as a base.
Today, despite its relative inaccessibility, the mansion is a popular tourist
destination and venue for weddings and other social gatherings.
Click here to see Bacolod and Silay Cities Slideshow
Mambukal Hot Springs Resort
On December 26th, Greg and I drive with Raul, Teray and assorted members of the Gorres clan to Mambukal Hot Springs Resort, the point of entry into Mount Kanlaon National Park; the mountain is a still-active volcano. The skies continue to be overcast, remnants of yesterday's tropical storm. The gloomy, rainy weather has its advantages, though: it is cooler and less sticky than usual. It also provides some dramatic scenery as, making our way up to the park, we witness low-lying clouds scud across the wide open skies, rolling hills, and farmlands.
Mambukal (meaning boiling water in the local dialect) Hot Springs Resort was created in the 1920s by Japanese architect Kokichi (Paul) Ishiwata who wanted a way to maintain the Japanese custom of hot springs bathing. One of Mambukal's greatest appeals is its naturalistic setting. The hot springs, for one, is in an area surrounded by lush forests populated by thousands of fruit bats that sweep in large groups, from one area of trees to another. In addition to the bats, Mount Kanlaon National Park is home to several, near-extinct wildlife, including the civet cat, leopard, hawk eagle, and bleeding heart pigeon. Several tributaries run within the park, ending in seven separate waterfalls.
Greg, two of the young girls, and I eagerly take to the therapeutic pools, whose temperatures average about 37 degrees celsius. The heady aroma of tropical rainforest and sulfuric springs, along with the songs of what seems like multiple species of tropical birds, make for a relaxing experience. Greg, who suffers from mild psoriasis, revels in the therapeutic waters. The rest of the group opt to walk around the resort, looking for a suitable place to have a merienda (a light meal or snack). The paths up to the volcano's summit have been closed due to the weather, which is disappointing, because a short hike up to one of the falls, was one of today's anticipated activities.
After a time, the group reconvenes and indulges in drinks and desserts. I have my first halo-halo (a popular Filipino dessert consisting of shaved ice, scoops of ice cream, tapioca, sugar palm fruit [kaong], coconut sport [macapuno], and caramelized jack fruit, among others, all submerged under a layer of evaporated milk), in 30 years. It was a refreshing ending to the hot dip. After dessert, the group drives through other parts of the resort, before heading home, and joining the rest of the family for a bon voyage dinner, at a Korean-Japanese fusion restaurant at Robinson's, a mall in downtown Bacolod.
Click here to see Mambukal Hot Springs Resort Slideshow
Dumaguete City, Negros Oriental
After another arduous six-hour bus ride, albeit taking in some breath taking views of forests, rice fields, and the sea, we arrive in Dumaguete City, founded in the late 16th century by Spanish conquistadors. Its name means 'to snatch', a reference to the marauding pirates that frequented the port city in its early history. It was the Americans who, in 1901, established a government there and who, in WWII, restored order after the Japanese occupation of the city. They also established the first private Protestant university in Asia. Silliman University was established in 1901, first as an elementary school, and today comprises several colleges, schools, and institutes.
After checking into our hotel, Greg and I wander the streets. It is early evening and the sun has already started setting. Despite that, the temperatures are still high. We combat the mugginess by heading to the promenade along Rizal Boulevard, which fronts the Tanon Strait. The air here is fresher and cooler and we perk up at the number of restaurants and bars with lively music issuing from them. We enter a Mexican restaurant where we are seated close to the bar. Here, we take in the middle-aged White men milling about drinking and chatting up the young Filipina servers. We roll our eyes at each other, but notice a similar pattern throughout the city, over the next few days. Dumaguete, we are later told has a significant North American, British, and Australian expat community - mainly men of a certain age - attracted to the breezy, affordable lifestyle, and exotic young Filipinas with whom 'dates' - and even marriages - are easily had.
As with other seaside cities, much activity takes place along the waterfront in Dumaguete. A seemingly unique feature is the number of vendors selling 'balut' - boiled eggs containing chicken or duck embryos eaten with salt and beer. Entire open air seating areas, scintillating with activity, have been set up to accommodate the enjoyment of this delicacy, by the sea. Greg and I admire the buzz, but return to the hotel, for an early night. It has been a long day.
The next day, after a too-expensive 'western' breakfast of bacon and eggs, we walk along the waterfront. The cool ocean breeze seems no match for the sultry heat, so after taking in a few of the attractions close to the city square - the 18th century Belfry Tower, the main cathedral of St. Catherine of Alexandria - we seek out the local tourist office. As in Manila, we sense that the best way to beat the heat is to head out of the city. We do not have much luck finding interesting tours at the city tourist office, so we take a tricycle cab (a motorbike with a side car for hire; regular cabs are illegal in Dumaguete) to the provincial tourist office. Overhearing an animated conversation about local wildlife between two men at the tourist office, we strike up a conversation with both about tours on offer. As it turns out, one of the men, Dave from Devon, England, conducts private tours of Dumaguete and surrounding areas. Having lived in and explored Negros Oriental for over two years, Dave has acquired extensive knowledge of the surrounding countryside and mountains. After advising us on the most interesting sites, we arrange to meet the next day.
The next day, after a too-expensive 'western' breakfast of bacon and eggs, we walk along the waterfront. The cool ocean breeze seems no match for the sultry heat, so after taking in a few of the attractions close to the city square - the 18th century Belfry Tower, the main cathedral of St. Catherine of Alexandria - we seek out the local tourist office. As in Manila, we sense that the best way to beat the heat is to head out of the city. We do not have much luck finding interesting tours at the city tourist office, so we take a tricycle cab (a motorbike with a side car for hire; regular cabs are illegal in Dumaguete) to the provincial tourist office. Overhearing an animated conversation about local wildlife between two men at the tourist office, we strike up a conversation with both about tours on offer. As it turns out, one of the men, Dave from Devon, England, conducts private tours of Dumaguete and surrounding areas. Having lived in and explored Negros Oriental for over two years, Dave has acquired extensive knowledge of the surrounding countryside and mountains. After advising us on the most interesting sites, we arrange to meet the next day.
Click here to see Dumaguete City Slideshow
Twin Lakes, Negros Oriental
Friday, December 28th is somewhat cooler than the previous day, with a mix of sun and cloud - better weather for an outing involving some hiking and boating. Dave, our tour guide, fetches us at 8:30 and we head 20 km northwest of Dumaguete.
Along the way, Dave regales us with stories about his two years living in Dumaguete and married to a local. Typical of an expat at the end of the honeymoon phase of living abroad, he's critical about some of the Filipino cultural idiosyncrasies and conventions, including the cuisine (an emphasis on rice and processed food from the west, resulting in increased obesity rates); what he regards as the unsafe practice of driving motorbikes at breakneck speeds, without helmets, mirrors, or horns, and often with two or three family members and a live pig (an inevitable meal) on-board; and the blatant cronyism in government, including kickbacks for politicos. He intends to visit Devon in the new year, for a break.
Driving up some steep and inconsistently paved roads (apparently, inconsistencies reflect differences in political influence as those areas represented by 'strong' politicians have their roads paved), we arrive at the entrance of a national park within which lie the Twin Lakes of Balinsasayao and Danao. Both are small but very deep freshwater lakes, a thousand feet above sea level, separated by a small mountain ridge and ringed by four mountains. The lush and virgin forests in this area contain some rare flora and fauna, including various types of orchid, spotted deer, monkeys, and the Visayan warty pig.
There are two well-maintained observation decks that offer spectacular views of the lakes from two vantage points. We spend some time at one, on whose grounds a rare and enormous boa constrictor was recently spotted (I forewarn a friendly stray pooch who seems to take this news in stride) and then hire a boat to paddle to the other side of the lake. A young female paddler from the local village accompanies us on our lake tour. Tourism now make up the majority of villagers' income, where farming and fishing once did. We all take turns paddling on stunningly blue Lake Balinsasayao where the waters are currently calm and enormous clouds scurry by. Dave forewarns that the weather can turn without notice, as a result of our high altitude. We cross our fingers, but are too engrossed in the spectacular scenery to care much. It takes us 20 minutes to reach the ridge that separates the lakes, and where we climb up the second observation deck.
There are two well-maintained observation decks that offer spectacular views of the lakes from two vantage points. We spend some time at one, on whose grounds a rare and enormous boa constrictor was recently spotted (I forewarn a friendly stray pooch who seems to take this news in stride) and then hire a boat to paddle to the other side of the lake. A young female paddler from the local village accompanies us on our lake tour. Tourism now make up the majority of villagers' income, where farming and fishing once did. We all take turns paddling on stunningly blue Lake Balinsasayao where the waters are currently calm and enormous clouds scurry by. Dave forewarns that the weather can turn without notice, as a result of our high altitude. We cross our fingers, but are too engrossed in the spectacular scenery to care much. It takes us 20 minutes to reach the ridge that separates the lakes, and where we climb up the second observation deck.
We
are greeted by a cacophony of birdsong that complements the impressive views of Lake Danoa. But it is the forest we head into that elicits much awe. It
is lush and dense, comprised of old growth trees with thick trunks wound up with creeping vines. There are few flowers, but the variety of leaves and their generally enormous size are impressive. In addition to the call of various bird species are scores of insects, flitting and buzzing about. Greg and I are feeling a little disconcerted at the increasing number of mosquitoes, as we make our way deeper into the woods. We have read about malaria being on the rise in certain parts of the country, but were unsure about whether these included the Twin Lakes. The humidity rises and with it the density of the forest. Out of necessity, we look down at our feet more often, carefully navigating around gnarled branches and fallen trees, slick with moisture. Dave - in no more than flip flops - advises that we look out for venomous snakes and spiders lurking in fallen, hollowed branches. Being nocturnal, they won't be active at this time, but will attack, if surprised. Both snakes and spiders have keen senses, especially for movement, so one can't be too careful. With our anxiety growing, we head back to the boat, which was just as well. By now, the humidity is becoming unbearable and our rising body temperature is attracting more mosquitoes and other insects. After twenty minutes, we once again hear the familiar birdsong and glimpse the observation deck, just ahead. We encounter another group of hikers, whose Filipino guide smile at us, in welcome.
Back at the boat, we push off and head over to another part of Lake
Balinsasayao. Dave wants to show us a small but picturesque waterfall,
and we are always up for more sightseeing. As we cross the lake, the
clouds seem even more enormous and lower than earlier. Dave claims that
this is normal, for the time of day (11:00 am), so there is no need for
concern. On the brighter side, the clouds, in their close proximity, are
beautiful, emanating small rainbows at their edges, as they pass.
On reaching the other side of the lake, we disembark. In contrast to those we have just left, these woods are less dense. Clearly, some agriculture has taken place on these shores, if the grove of banana trees nearby is any indication. Also close to shore, we hear the babbling of a brook, which we follow to its source: a medium sized water fall. The sound of the water is calming and the air surrounding it is cool and refreshing. I feel less anxious about spiders and snakes as there seems less for them to hide in or behind. We are quiet and contemplative, for a time.
On the return journey, we pass more closely the banks on the opposite side of the lake to where we'd been. As with the forest on the banks of Lake Danoa, this one is very dense. We can barely see into it, for all the trees and their broad leaves. I wonder what exotic, terrifying animals must live in its confines, ready to attack unsuspecting, pesky tourists.
On reaching the other side of the lake, we disembark. In contrast to those we have just left, these woods are less dense. Clearly, some agriculture has taken place on these shores, if the grove of banana trees nearby is any indication. Also close to shore, we hear the babbling of a brook, which we follow to its source: a medium sized water fall. The sound of the water is calming and the air surrounding it is cool and refreshing. I feel less anxious about spiders and snakes as there seems less for them to hide in or behind. We are quiet and contemplative, for a time.
On the return journey, we pass more closely the banks on the opposite side of the lake to where we'd been. As with the forest on the banks of Lake Danoa, this one is very dense. We can barely see into it, for all the trees and their broad leaves. I wonder what exotic, terrifying animals must live in its confines, ready to attack unsuspecting, pesky tourists.
Back at home base, we chat with the locals who operate the boat tours. Like many of the other attractions on Negros Oriental, they were once farmers, but have now turned entrepreneurs, seduced by the increasing tourist trade, proud of their roots and connection to these lands. Where once they had suffered from the toll of climate changes on their crops, they are, once again, self-sufficient. Despite my apprehension about their new-found source of living, I cannot help but be impressed by their resilience and optimism.
Our visit to the Twin Lakes was capped off by a relaxing merienda. Driving back to the main highway, we stop at a cafe, perched on the side of a cliff. It offered great food and drink, along with some of the most spectacular mountain scenery we've seen all day. The green shade of the dense forest changed from deep emerald to chartreuse, depending on whether it was in direct sunlight or not, and a narrow river wended its way at the mountains' base. We were mesmerized, not only by the forest's colour, but also by the sheer height of our perch. The cafe's capacious balconies offered multiple perspectives, enticing us to stay, relax, and enjoy the scenery.
Click here to see Twin Lakes Slideshow
Mabinay Caves, Negros Oriental
On our last full day in Dumaguete City, we once again, head for the hills with Dave, this time to the famous Mabinay Caves, about two hours west and inland. Our final destination, however, is Niludhan Falls, about 45 minutes north of the Mabinay Caves. The caves are part of a complex of over 400 caves, each ranging in degree of difficulty for spelunking from beginner to extreme. The longest one is the Odloman Cave, at 8.7 km long. We opt for the most accessible - Crystal Cave - with its metal walkways and electric lighting. This cave has earned its name well, consisting of giant, sparkling stalactites and stalagmites and hosting the big-eared horseshoe bat, tailless scorpion, swift, and the most enormous black spiders we've ever seen - one, a female, dragging an enormous egg sack.
The temperature in the cave is cool but humid and eerily quiet, with the steady but slow drops of water from the stalactites, forming stalagmites, on the cave floor. Variations considered, these grow at an average rate of .13 mm/year. The artificial lighting varies the illumination in the cave, from gold to ice blue, creating a sparkling, wintery landscape, with the flying bats and swifts adding a slightly sinister tone to the scene.
Niludhan Falls, Negros Oriental
An hour later, we are heading for Niludhan Falls, further into the interior, with the climb becoming steeper as we continue. Along the way, we stop to take in the incredible vistas, looking back towards the Bohol Sea, a combination of patch-worked rice paddies and towering palm trees, their attenuated fronds weaving delicately in the breeze. Also along the way, we pass tiny villages, consisting of barely a dozen buildings, with tiny stands lining the road, selling everything from fruit to sweets. We wonder how the merchants make their living, given the few who travel up here. Dave says the Falls' reputation is spreading, thanks, to the Web; so, traffic is increasing.
Arriving at the end of a nondescript patch of dirt road (no wonder there aren't more crowds; any indication of the Falls' location is non-existent), we hear the increasing thunder of rushing water. Clearly, one has to know where the Falls are, in order to know where the foot path to it lies. We climb down some well-maintained concrete steps and as the forest thins, the Falls gradually come into view. And what a sight they are! The ideal height and width and collecting into the most emerald green pool we've ever seen. We quickly change and carefully clamber over rocks, for a swim. These are treacherous, covered in the filmiest, virtually invisible moss. One misstep and one could dash one's head on the sharp rocks. Several times, I come close to doing so. The effort is worth it, though, as we are treated to the freshest, cleanest swim we have had on the trip, so far.
After three days in this part of Negros, we can look back on some of the most memorable excursions to some of the most spectacular natural settings, in the country. We now look forward to our tour of Cebu City and the island of Palawan, as the New Year approaches.
Click here to see Mabinay Caves and Niludhan Falls Slideshow
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